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PostPosted: Aug 6th, '18, 01:13 
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Dear friends, I would like to have an advice, my Ammonia is about 8 PPM, nitrite is bellow 0.25PPM and nitrate is about 5 PPM, since 2 days in a raw, I just cleaned up my swirl filter and used the waste to be mineralized for 1 week until ammonia and nitrite went to zero then I added it back to the system,

my temp on the room is about 30C day 25C night with only fan on, so water temp is not a problem I think, my pH is about 6.8 since I added a small amount of hydrated lime and wood ash (for potassium), I am using constant flow with clay beds and bio filter filled with plastic water buttle caps and big aeration pump as well.


please advice me HOW can I bring my ammonia down by speeding the nitrification process, and why this happened since my system started on 15/5/2018, what went wrong?? my plants starting looking bad and yellowing i assume since there is very low nitrate level :-x



thank you in advanced


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PostPosted: Aug 6th, '18, 01:27 
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I forgot to mention, I have 600 ltr fish tank with 45 big and small tilapia fishes


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File comment: I am using only constant flow and DWC with extra air stones bellow, I have about 40 mediam to small tilapia
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File comment: the nitrate today even lower, and ammonia same
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PostPosted: Aug 6th, '18, 08:15 
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First thing is to stop feeding the fish if you haven't already.

Look to see if you have any dead or decomposing organic matter including any fish or other animals in the tank and remove them.

Have you added large volumes of chlorinated water (more than 20% of system volume)? If this is the case you may have done something to the bio-filter - I kind of doubt this but it's a thought?

You may be overstocked for the filtration you have.

Check to see if the ammonia is at toxic levels based on your pH and water temp - look here - http://ibcofaquaponics.com/information/tables-and-charts/

Post up the volume of your grow beds and any other bio-filtration you may have along with a description description of the system.



FYI - Nitrates aren't usually a big deal but they can indicate if you don't have enough plants growing. That's probably why you're seeing high nitrates.


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PostPosted: Aug 6th, '18, 18:07 
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Dear Scotty thank you very much for your reply

I checked the levels of ammonia and nitrite they are exactly the same as 16 hours ago :think: and also I checked the link you gave me it seems that ammonia not yet reach toxic levels yet, they will reach at 11 PPM however I still need to fix the issue.

I also checked for any dead fish i did not find any and my GB is pretty clean, there is what I think happened (please advice if my thoughts are accurate)

1- Two weeks ago I added an auto top off pipe connected to my home water supply with a normal washing machine filter (I suspect that it doesn’t remove chlorine however it might even increase it and I did not know at the time) my auto top off add around 15 – 20 litters of water every day so I might killed all my nitrifying bacteria on the way.
2- Since I am using constant flow grow beds and not flood and drain I think I do not have enough bio surface to process all the ammonia, as well I am using water bottle taps as my bio media (around 600) I also think they are not doing enough

HERE IS THE SOLUTION that I think I will do ASAP to fix the problem
1- First (As shown on the pictures) I will be adding more nitrifying bacteria to the system using products I bought today from the pet store to help establish a new bacteria in my system
2- I will change my mechanical filter into a new bio filter by adding a new air stones inside and 10 meters of pvc shade net as you can see in the pictures


Please advice on my new action to fix the problem and I apologize for my poor English again

Thank you very much


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File comment: I think nitrogen deficiency due to lack of nitrate
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File comment: system
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File comment: new bacteria
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File comment: fish tank, it is dark since I was using toic iron liquid fertilizer
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File comment: moving bio media
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File comment: AUTO TOP-OFF FILTER (SISPECTED KILLING MY BACTERIA)
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PostPosted: Aug 6th, '18, 18:41 
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and I forgot to mention I will remove that filter and add a new reverse osmoses water filter for my auto top-off system


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PostPosted: Aug 6th, '18, 20:26 
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Hello YasirIRAQ and welcome to the forum!
That looks like a great little system you have going there.
Did you mention how long this system has been up and running? Also, how long did it require to get the nitrogen cycle going after starting and were the fish in during the cycling?
I'm not sure why you think the dual inline top-off water filters would would be anything but excellent for the water quality going in to your system?
Where does the house water come from? Are you in the city? Or is it a well? Have you tested the tap water with the API test kit? The house water may be where some of those high readings are coming from.

Seachem Stability is a fine product, however in aquaponics we generally do not not treat the water with aquarium hobby products. It is okay to use. The bottom line is you can't speed up the cycle process.
What you can do:
Immediately dilute the AP water

I suggest you leave the filters on the incoming water and do a 20% (of total volume) water change as soon as possible!
Test the water after dilution. The ammonia should go down.
If fresh household water is readily available, repeat the 20% water change again the next day.
Repeat the water tests.
Repeat until the water quality goes back to normal.
I hope this helps.
Brian

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Specs: 2600 gallon (347.56cf) Masonry fish pond. 44cf GBs. 200 gal (26.7cf) ST. 15 gal (2cf) RFF. 50 gal (6.7cf) biofilter. Brook trout and Comets.


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PostPosted: Aug 6th, '18, 20:56 
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thank you boss for your reply.

I started my system mid May 2018 (little more than two months ago) and I am facing this problem immediately after building my auto top off system that is why I am assuming that the filter I added did not remove clorine (it might make it worse) that is only my assumption since I am using house tap water (City Water) and I never tested the tap water using API before since I did not even think about it lol. I will do that along with the 20% water change.

The system cycled after around one month from adding the fish, I use to have very low Ammonia, nitrite and very high levels of nitrate before that's why my plants was booming.


My main issue is why I am reading high ammonia and no nitrite and no nitrate, it might be that my bio filter is not working fast enough, and nitrate is been taken very fast by the plants


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PostPosted: Aug 6th, '18, 22:28 
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You are most welcome.
I think you are correct about the biofiltration not keeping up with the quantity of fish feed. I assumed you took Scotty435's advise and stopped feeding the fish to curtail the introduction of ammonia, if not, stop the feed until you get the ammonia level down to .5ppm or very low.
Is there an easy way to increase the volume of water in the fish tank? As far as I am aware most people have a larger fish tank for 45 fish.

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Specs: 2600 gallon (347.56cf) Masonry fish pond. 44cf GBs. 200 gal (26.7cf) ST. 15 gal (2cf) RFF. 50 gal (6.7cf) biofilter. Brook trout and Comets.


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PostPosted: Aug 6th, '18, 22:51 
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I guess I will BBQ a few soon :), yes I wish the modification I did by adding 10 mtr of shade into the biofilter and increase aeration will help strengthen my bio capacity.

Boss and Sccot, I wish you guys can join me in the fish BBQ and taste the Arabian style cooking


Thank you brother for the care and advice.


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PostPosted: Aug 7th, '18, 00:04 
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I wish we could too. You are so very welcome.

Sent from my SM-J700T using Tapatalk

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Specs: 2600 gallon (347.56cf) Masonry fish pond. 44cf GBs. 200 gal (26.7cf) ST. 15 gal (2cf) RFF. 50 gal (6.7cf) biofilter. Brook trout and Comets.


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PostPosted: Aug 7th, '18, 00:56 
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That BBQ sounds great but don't wait too long, I wish I could be there :thumbright: .

I've got some things to add to what Brian already said if I'm not too late.

Check the pH and temp of the water you're going to add - you don't want the pH and temp of the system to go up because that will increase the toxic form of ammonia in your system.

In order to find your actual ammonia reading you'll need to dilute the system water sample before testing - It looks like you've reached the maximum reading that your kit can give you and it may be that you're actually reading higher. Try diluting system water with tap water 1 to 1 and then run the test on this to see what your reading actually is - you'll have to multiply the reading by 2. It won't be super accurate but should give you some idea of the actual level. Diluting it 1 part system to 3 parts tap water might work better (then multiply the result by 4).

:? You have plenty of nitrates based on the test picture you posted.

I'm not sure how your water quality is so take this with a grain of salt - Regarding the auto top off filter - It's probably fine to have the filter as is. A Reverse-Osmosis filter would probably remove more elements from the water than you want so I wouldn't recommend doing this. It can be done but you will probably have to add things back.

The netting will improve the biofiltration but you will have to clean it regularly or it will start to have anaerobic areas where the bacterial will convert ammonia into nitrogen gas which will be lost to the air instead of being made into nitrates for the plants. The University of the Virgin Islands used this netting setup and it works to regulate the nitrogen - you may want to check out some of their information.

Enjoy the BBQ :wave:


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PostPosted: Aug 7th, '18, 02:29 
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thanks mate for your reply. I love your point of diluting the system water with clean water to get more accurate ammonia test that is what I will do


regarding the netting I added three air stones on the bottom of the barrel to supply good amount of oxygen and keep bacteria happy and not wasting the ammonia into the air and it is deep inside so it wouldn't create water agitation on the top to prevent the small waste particle that might find its way there from seeking into the moving bio filter tank, I HOPE THAT WILL WORK

I made my fish shallow fry and it was the best fish I have even had in my life since making that system and learning about all this for the past three months was very hard

thank you very much Scotty

you can see my the progress there

https://photos.google.com/album/AF1QipP ... meuMAxgkgy


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PostPosted: Aug 7th, '18, 08:22 
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On the netting in the filter - What usually happens is bacteria and solids build up on the netting and you get the anaerobic zones. This will happen even without any solids because the bacteria will build up layer on layer until the lower layers don't get enough air. One of the nice things about those little wagon wheel plastic media is that they tumble and are self cleaning so they are a bit easier to care for because of that. I don't think you're going to escape having to clean the netting (actually I'm pretty sure you will have to clean it pretty frequently but it will help with the ammonia)

Couldn't see the rest of the pics for some reason but that's a nice looking Tilapia :headbang: .


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PostPosted: Aug 7th, '18, 10:17 
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Nice fish Yasir, I spent some time up north in the KRG region. Masgouf was one of my favourite dishes, its surprising how good carp can taste! that smokey flavour, the charred bits, lemon, pickles and flat bread straight from the oven..beautiful!

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PostPosted: Aug 7th, '18, 21:19 
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Yummy and wow that's great growth for three months!

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:dontknow: I don't understand all I know about this :dontknow:
Specs: 2600 gallon (347.56cf) Masonry fish pond. 44cf GBs. 200 gal (26.7cf) ST. 15 gal (2cf) RFF. 50 gal (6.7cf) biofilter. Brook trout and Comets.


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