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PostPosted: Aug 5th, '13, 15:42 
Nice & neat there joblow.... :cheers:


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PostPosted: Aug 6th, '13, 03:24 
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RupertofOZ wrote:
Nice & neat there joblow.... :cheers:



Thanks Rupe, it's all been built on the guidance from you guys here on this forum, I wouldn't have taken it on without the knowledge shared on here.

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PostPosted: Aug 6th, '13, 06:32 
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Love it! :cheers:

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PostPosted: Aug 6th, '13, 16:34 
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Now thats what i want mine to look like, eventually :thumbright:

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PostPosted: Aug 7th, '13, 03:35 
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Thanks Charlie


keredg wrote:
Now thats what i want mine to look like, eventually :thumbright:


Thanks keredg your plants will probably do a lot better than mine with your weather and you're already off to a good start.

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PostPosted: Aug 23rd, '13, 06:55 
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Fish tank upgrade:

I’m in the process of upgrading my fish tank, the main reason being because the existing tank’s SLO outlet was too close to the top of the tank and left no room for fish to jump and having the pump throttled back to avoid any overflow I felt an upgrade would be a better option.

There will be three main benefits in upgrading the first being the extra height above the water level, the second is an extra 200 litres of water gained and the last benefit being the dual SLO’s. I will now have 1.2 meters of 90mm SLO drawing solids from the bottom of the tank.

The previous SLO was only 50mm and half the length so I should see a big improvement in solids removal; the new SLO’s have 6mm slots every 50mm and will have an air stone down at the end of each tube to help push the solids up. There will be another 2 – 100mm round air stones on the bottom of the tank so oxygen won’t be a problem.

Being able to pump faster in the fish tank should also help in the solids removal.

The old fish tank will be cut down into another GB this time it will be a lot deeper than the first two and with 4 half blue barrels planned as a future addition.

One SLO will run to the two existing GB’s and the second will flow to the new GB and any future additions.

The IBC was in a terrible state with the cage having being hit by a forklift on two corners made it impossible to remove the tank from the cage; it took 2 hours of careful panel beating to know whether or not it could be used as a fish tank.

Once it was out of the cage I could then bash the cage into a reasonable condition and see the potential of using it as a fish tank.


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PostPosted: Aug 23rd, '13, 06:59 
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The tank it's self should now return to the correct shape when it's filled with water.


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PostPosted: Aug 23rd, '13, 07:06 
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I priced reflective foil insulation at Bunning’s and they wanted $54.00 for their shortest length so I thought for now I would just cover the tank with 2 layers of 90% shade cloth and add extra insulation later, possibly styrene sheets & more shade cloth or even the reflective foil and styrene, I’ll work on that later.


To be able to get a full 900 litres of water I removed a section of the crossbar to cut the holes right on the 900 litre level.


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PostPosted: Aug 23rd, '13, 07:12 
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The bottom of the SLO has 6mm slots 50mm apart.


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PostPosted: Aug 23rd, '13, 07:24 
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The emergency overflow will run back to the sump to avoid the sump pumping dry.

It will probably be all up and running this weekend except for the extra GB's there's still a bit of work in getting them up and running.

The hole to the right of the emergency overflow is where I'll bring both the water & air lines into the tank.


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PostPosted: Aug 24th, '13, 00:54 
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I'm considering upgrading my FT outlet to 50mm from 40mm as i got some 2" uniseals cheap and also the 50mm pipe free(can't get cheaper than that) i also upsized the tube from the pump in the ST to FT from 15mm to 25mm and since then its obviouse that i'm getting more throughput of water to the FT as the level has risen an inch and a bit.

I'm now confused, i see your vertical part of the SLO is a lot bigger than the outlet, surely this will be worse for lifting solids as the flow in the larger diameter uplift will be slower and hence harder to pick up larger bits due to the bottlekneck at the exit T.

I've been experimenting before i change over to a 50mm SLO from the 40mm. With the 40mm i get a clean patch with a much bigger diameter on the tank floor than with the 50mm which makes me think i'm getting a faster flow on the uplift with the smaller pipe and hence better suction/performance. I just have it bang in the centre with no crosstubes at the base though, as i now have managed to get the IBC to swirl, all be it slowly but its working.

Looks very professional, :headbang: my pipework sucks.

I think i might raise this question to the forum in the general discusions before i change over.

Let us know how it performs as i may be missing something being a newbee to all this and am still at the trial and error stage.

I used sylage polythene to cover my tanks/GB's, its 100% lightproof(tested with a 400w halogen), UV treated and is white one side black on the other(i use white side out to reflect heat) best of all its muck cheap.

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PostPosted: Aug 24th, '13, 04:14 
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Hi keredg,

I don't think there will be any problems with the 90mm SLO's dropping down to 50mm but if it is a problem I will drop them back to 50mm.

The water level can only rise at the rate it's pumped in at and should flow out through the two 50mm outlets without any problems.

The water will be pumped in through 25mm pipe and be leaving the tank by two 50mm outlets so I think the solids will rise quicker and more efficiently through the 90mm and with the outlets being double the size of the inlet it should all get away OK.

Kereda I maybe totally wrong and if I am it won't be a major problem to fix and I'll put that down to experience and part of the learning curve.

Kereda I'll keep you posted on the out come. Your upgrade from 40mm t0 50mm will be a improvement and my 90mm pipe cost the same price as your 50mm so I'll only lose the cost of the fittings if I need to replace the 90mm with 50mm.

Joe

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PostPosted: Aug 24th, '13, 05:44 
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Hi Joe
If you pump it in at X gallons/h it will come out at X gallons/h(unless obstructed) but i think you missed my point

I may be well off base but my way of thinking and in theory If my calculations are correct(and not taking into account any friction loss or slowing due to bends,T's, reductions etc)

The cross section area of a 25mm pipe is 491mm²(rounded to whole numbers)
the cross section area of a 50mm pipe is1963mm²(rounded to whole numbers)
the cross section area of a 90mm pipe is 6362mm²( rounded to whole numbers)

Therefore water flowing through a 90mm pipe at X gallon/h will move about 13 times slower than through a 25mm pipe for the same volume
but through a 50mm only 4 times slower than the 25mm pipe

Flowing through a 90mm pipe would be 3.25 times slower than through a 50mm pipe

X= pump rate G/h,

Another way to look at it is liquid flows easier through a bigger pipe than a smaller one so i might be 100% wrong especially as once its in the tank onwards its all controlled by gravity

This weekend i will do some interesting testing to find the best pipe size for my pump rate, obviously it will be different to yours. My system is still new(not much poo) and in the building stage but i like to experiment especially if it doesn't cost much.

I'll keep you posted

kered (Derek in reverse :) )

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PostPosted: Aug 24th, '13, 07:40 
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Great job Joblow, that's a very neat system. Like the quality finish of the FT, awesome :headbang:


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PostPosted: Aug 24th, '13, 08:54 
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keredg:

Wow! that's way too technical for me I'm a hit and miss sort of guy but I see your point and you maybe 100% correct.

I still think I'm OK, I'll have 25mm diam. coming in and 2 by 50mm going out so I'm pretty sure there won't be any flow restriction but I could be wrong, Keredg I've been wrong many times before but hopefully not this time.

Muz:

Thanks for the compliment the shade cloth was a easy and cheap way out, I wanted to use Silver Insulation to keep the heat out but at the price Bunning's wanted I chose the shade cloth.

The shade cloth was very easy to fit I gave it about 500mm overlap then folded back the edge to fit directly under one of the vertical bars on the cage and taped the bottom edge, when the water goes in it should all tighten up pretty well and lock it all in place.

It's not as cheap as paint but it was very quick and easy to fit and will hide any dents in the plastic that would have been seen just using paint.

Thanks Guys.

Joe

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