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PostPosted: Jan 10th, '17, 08:06 
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SP in the wetlands aviary (the big open pool under netting) and Barra used to be in the salt. croc pool
which I think is boarded up at present ?

if they were doing renovations - so over summer maybe there are barra in the wetland.
they definitely wouldn't survive winter in that open pool - too open.

The SP are quite large and a few years old. There is an info plaque on the walkway at the bridge.

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PostPosted: Jan 10th, '17, 19:42 
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Got my 5,000 L/H pump in the mail today.


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PostPosted: Jan 10th, '17, 19:50 
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test it but usually best to use the largest diameter pipe that it accepts.
(so avoid the small diameter attachments)

for that size flow you probably want 25mm in a gentle curve to maximise flow and minimise resistance.
Have none/few joins till you get to the grow bed.

black poly pipe works well

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PostPosted: Jan 11th, '17, 11:51 
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Anybody here had any luck with diy ''Global Buckets''? .. seems as moisture goes it seems to go thur better than a wicking bed/pot .. more worms etc etc .. here's the comparison results below.....

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wNrFn2-zXrw


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PostPosted: Jan 12th, '17, 16:31 
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havent DIY'd them like RobBob showed but basically the 40 Litre Decor self watering pots I use are the same thing. They grow chillis very well.

Personally 25 litre buckets would be too small to warrant a wicking bucket IMO so the simplistic design sounds fine. I have done it as rock then shadecloth then dirt then rock mulch before in small tubs for herbs and mint.
With drain hole at the shadecloth level and couple times put a bit of a wick in with PVC.

The RobBob design costs you 2 buckets and a net basket I guess.

RobBobs wicking barrels are pretty good though and he still uses wicking bed IBC's

Food&Fish does his bucket in abucket if you browse his thread.


FYI - a while ago few people here (including Scotty435) played with gutter buckets and similar, some of which were are along a similar line, except that the wick bit sat in a gutter or trough. Thread is here... viewtopic.php?f=1&t=12708&hilit=gutter+pots
which will point you to the various YouTube bits on that topic.

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PostPosted: Jan 13th, '17, 11:36 
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From watching a few video's I got a good idea where to make my cuts, the general set up of the global bucket ........

Image

Image

Soil is now needed, ohhh yeah and something to plant :D


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PostPosted: Jan 14th, '17, 00:36 
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Attachment:
File comment: 5 gal Gro-Bucket with 4 vertical planting sites. 1.5 gal reservoir and 4 gal media
5 gl SIP Vertical Planting Holes.jpg
5 gl SIP Vertical Planting Holes.jpg [ 125.82 KiB | Viewed 2524 times ]


Attachment:
File comment: Top view of Gro-Bucket
5 gl SIP Bucket 2.jpg
5 gl SIP Bucket 2.jpg [ 124.88 KiB | Viewed 2524 times ]


Attachment:
File comment: 25 gal Re-Cycled Molasses tub with 8 vertical planting holes, 7 gal water reservoir, 18 gals media
25 gl Re-Cycled Molasses SIP Tub 1.jpg
25 gl Re-Cycled Molasses SIP Tub 1.jpg [ 135.65 KiB | Viewed 2524 times ]


Attachment:
File comment: 25 gal Re-Cycled Molasses tubs planted with Eggplants thru the side planting holes and Tomato's in the top. The tubs water reservoirs are kept full by gravity flow thru a 5 gal control bucket using a float valve.
25 gl Re-Cycled Molasses SIP Tub 3 (640x480) - Copy (640x480).jpg
25 gl Re-Cycled Molasses SIP Tub 3 (640x480) - Copy (640x480).jpg [ 279.78 KiB | Viewed 2524 times ]


Attachment:
File comment: 8'x2'x15.5" SIP with 50 gal water reservoir and 75 gals of media.
2x8 SIP Wood Planter 1.jpg
2x8 SIP Wood Planter 1.jpg [ 218.49 KiB | Viewed 2524 times ]


The first 4 pictures have 3/4" PVC fill tubes, but the reservoirs can be Daisy Chained together with 1/2 vinyl tubing to be kept full 24/7/365. With the use of a 5 gal bucket with a Horizontal float valve.

All reservoirs are designed to hold only water or a water/nutrient solution. Wicks made from Polyester Piping Cord bring up the water into the media.

The top of the reservoir is made from 10mm Coroplast signage material, the wicks are secured to the underside of the top with 2" SS screws.

The reservoir is lined with a 8 mil PE Durascrim plastic.

Without using rocks in the reservoir, a 4x8' wicking bed can fit inside of a 1/2 ton Pick Up Truck, and delivered to the customer. Total estimated weight is less than a 700 pounds.

Any Questions, just ask.


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PostPosted: Jan 14th, '17, 18:25 
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OK today the raised garden beds were done, some pebbles and of course the 3 global buckets. I like the idea of having raised garden beds, because it's such a small space 2mx4m - plants get stepped on it's annoying and you wanna keep everything as tidy as possible. Also in the future I may dig them up, make a few mods and create 'wicking' raised beds ..... right now tho', the soil is rich and the plants thriving - maybe in the future but right now, it's all going sweet. Tomorrow I with plant a few more lettuce into the grow bed.

Image

Here's my AP set up and my upside down tomato looking goo..

Image

Here's a photo of the 3 global buckets.

Image

[quote="Old Prospector"][/quote]
Cheers for the info, I'll have a read and let you know


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PostPosted: Jan 16th, '17, 19:41 
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dlf_perth wrote:
problem is the answer is always "it depends".

the first issue is the pump - if you know the brand you can look up if it has a flow-head chart / table.
This will tell you the flow rate of the pump for different heights.

Image

The pump runs good at 2m head height as I tested it out, it filled 4 liters in less than 20 seconds less possibly, was deffo under 20 tho' ..... but yes that was before I read the back of the pump lol .. I cant make heads of tails of what is written tbh but anyways I'm running 1 growbed atm, pumping up 1 meter to reach the grow bed... size of the growbed is 750 liters.

Current tank is 1500 L

I'm wanting to have 2 x strawberry towers and another smaller growbed in the future.... THAT SAID trial and error I suppose, my biggest concern is getting the plumbing right as in won't the strawberry towers or any two different sized grow beds need different rates of flow if ALL using the SAME pump?? .... I don't want too much water coming out to some growbeds/towers and others needing more water... surly there is a way of controlling the flow to seperate grow beds? ..... where do you guys generally buy your plumbing from?


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PostPosted: Jan 16th, '17, 20:06 
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OK. Aside from Bunnings which are generally expensive (but then cheap for odd thing) the best place SOR is Perth Irrigation in Welshpool just off Orrong Rd (http://www.perthirrigation.com.au/contact). They are really good prices for all standard sizes as well as larger sized fittings and pipe. The only thing they don't blitz Bunnings on is the $3-$4 bulkhead fittings (sold as Garden Rain tank outlet).

control flow = inline ball values. These will do the trick - else playing with 25mm/20mm to 15mm works fine as well.
If you use 25mm/20mm T's with 15mm screw outlets you can actually rotate the T to control the outflow to your beds.

If you have capacity in your pump then you should be good to go for your strawberries.
But if you get stuck you can always airlift assist your pump using a 1.5-2m section of large diameter pipe.

If you have excess then my preference would be to put a T just above the water surface to get some extra aeration and circulation in your round tank.

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PostPosted: Jan 19th, '17, 21:57 
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I will note that down ''Perth Irrigation in Welshpool just off Orrong Rd'' for future reference. For the time being tho this morning I was reading about the ''Aerogarden'' for starting seeds when I got reading about Aeroponics to clone plants, really interesting that .... well I found the plans for a DIY version by GardenPool and the idea of cloning my better performing fruit [yes tomato's I'm looking at you..] and vegetables this way is very interesting ... seeing as I'm planting half my veg in dirt, planting fresh cuttings that have 1-2 cm's of new roots into either the AP set up or dirt garden beds/global buckets - could be really good and save a lot of time waiting for seeds to germinate and all.


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PostPosted: Jan 23rd, '17, 12:39 
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I thought everything was going ok but it seems it isn't... it feels that way.

I have noticed over the last two weeks that the plants aren't growing and some plants are yellow/brown. The water in the main tank is getting more green by the day ....... - from what I have read it seems to be normal but is annoying because I cannot see the fish because it is very annoying because I cannot see the fish and how they are going in general.

it feels like the plants are not getting enough nutrients. Because that main tank is getting more green, I'm finding it difficult to see the fish and whether or not that they are feeding etc etc.... too sure what is wrong but there seems to be something not quite right.... can anybody out there help me?


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PostPosted: Jan 23rd, '17, 17:31 
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I don't know if it is the fact that I only have 13 relatively small fish atm and that the plants are just not getting enough nutrients? .... the plants look like they have ''hit the wall'' so to speak, not encouraging ......... maybe it's cos after reading about making sure that "I do not over feed the fish" [more than once lol] .... I am not feeding the fish enough therefore they are not producing enough nutrients - I will check the bottom of the tank later for fish feed uneaten, if not any feed them more?? ..... oh so you know I am still every 5 days watering the plants directly with a Seasol mix .........


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PostPosted: Jan 23rd, '17, 20:42 
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Pics of the plants? And what are your current water test results?

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PostPosted: Jan 24th, '17, 01:11 
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Petesake wrote:
Hi Kaz,

Chooks are great although you should check out which ones lay the most all year round, if that's what you want. We chose Isa Browns I think they lay something like 265 per year. Some other breeds lay more but not all year round - they go on holidays malt get a tan and slowly put their energy back into new feathers instead of eggs.

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Pete, in my experience it's not so much what type of chickens you plan to keep to determine if they will lay year-round or not, but their environment that they are in... admittedly I'm only 2 years in to raising chickens right now. I started with 4 hens 2 years ago, towards fall they quit laying all together for about 2 weeks then I started reading on what I could do and found that the biggest issue why chickens stop laying eggs is lack of light when the days grow shorter. I bought a cheap clamp light and a cheaper dial timer and an LED light bulb, mounted them in the coop and set it so the light turns on a couple hours before daylight and turns off once the sun should be out, then turns back on about an hour before dark and runs until a couple hours after dark. They started laying again and laid all winter. I averaged 3 eggs a day out of 4 chickens that first winter. This last spring I added a bunch more (although I've lost a few through the year to predators) I currently have 12 hens averaging about 8-9 eggs a day, so it seems I'm running around the 75% mark for daily amount of eggs by keeping the LED light on a few hours a day. The other big thing I notice is that if they run out of water their egg production completely shuts down and takes them a few days to recover... so I have to keep a heat lamp on my water containers so they don't freeze through the winter.

I currently have 1 black australorp, 2 rhode island reds, 2 white leghorns, 2 barred rock, 1 silver laced wyandotte, and 4 ameracaunas. I had isa browns and a few others but I had a few birds just disappear through the summer/fall when I was letting them out to free range every day, so I suspect a predator got them, then I have had a few deaths in the coop that I know was a predator (darn weasel got in but I found it and shot her).

KAZ, it looks like you have a nice start on your system. One thing I love about this forum is seeing how much people are able to do in small areas. Probably contributes to all of the new ideas with aquaponics, and possibly why it hasn't caught on as well over here because people are more in to traditional gardens here, but necessity makes for good reason to come up with ideas for how to grow more in less space!

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