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 Post subject: embi's 3rd system setup
PostPosted: Nov 22nd, '09, 06:51 
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I have basically been given permission by the better half to expand into a 4 grow bed system. I just need to reorganise the garage to store everything that is in the garden shed and then pull down the garden shed. Not too hard at all to do.

Anyway. I noticed the google sketch up items on the BYAP website and set about seeing how well this would fit on our slab that is 7.5m x 3.5m and it seems it will fit perfectly.

What do you think would be the best setup out of these 2 options?
SETUP1
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SETUP2
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So my question is. I will use the old 1000lt tank as a fingerling tank, but considering the height of the new 3000lt tank how do i get the water back into the main tank?

Is it a 2 pump setup with the small tank as the sump?

Any other things that you think I might need to consider?

If I add a yabbie tank in the future is that a 3rd pump?

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PostPosted: Nov 22nd, '09, 06:58 
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Setup 1 is the best design for that system - seperates the growbeds a lot better.

It will be a two pump system, please make sure you have a float switch on the pump in the fish tank, that way if the sump pump fails you dont pump your main tank empty.

Also make sure you have a really good aerator on battery power.

Pump in main tank supplies growbeds, which drain into sump. Pump in sump tank (running on a float switch only) returns the water to the fish tank. I reccomend 2 x 4500 litre pondmax pumps, rather than the usual BYAP pumps. They are ideally suited to a system this size, and I have not heard of any of them failing yet.

Adding a 3rd tank does not have to mean a 3rd pump, you can just connect the two small tanks together via some pipe.

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PostPosted: Nov 22nd, '09, 07:47 
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Two words CHIFT PIST :P

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PostPosted: Nov 22nd, '09, 07:53 
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Bit hard on a concrete slab :mrgreen:

I suppose you could lift the main tank up, and lower the growbeds.

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PostPosted: Nov 22nd, '09, 08:36 
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Well that is probably what I would do (CHIFT PIST lifting the main fish tank up and lowering the grow beds a bit and perhaps digging the sump in a little just off the slab) but that is just me. I really like the CHIFT PIST method making sure the fish tank water goes through the grow beds before getting to the sump and the pump. Then again, that will require plumbing through the side of the fish tank somewhere.

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PostPosted: Nov 22nd, '09, 08:39 
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I totally want to avoid lifting and digging in etc etc... I think doing the extra pump is the way to go.

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PostPosted: Nov 22nd, '09, 08:49 
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Just please make sure you have a float switch in the main tank.

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PostPosted: Nov 22nd, '09, 08:51 
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Hi, I believe you currently have a two bed BYAP system. If you are going to have two pumps anyway, why not just have two different systems instead... during transitional weather period, it gives you the option of having one system at a different temperature... actually maybe put one tank in the shed. The shed usually gets hotter than the ambient temperature... plus you don't need to cover the tank anymore...

Just suggestions...

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PostPosted: Nov 22nd, '09, 09:01 
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You have just made me think....two pumps timed to operate one after the other... then I just need to add the grow beds??

Any thoughts on that?

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PostPosted: Nov 22nd, '09, 09:06 
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Well if you are interested in running one pump after the other, perhaps look into using an indexing valve from Rupe. Instead of trying to keep the timers actually in sync (since few timers will actually hold perfectly steady and you could end up with both pumps going and you would still need another pump in the sump tank.)

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PostPosted: Nov 22nd, '09, 09:13 
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I'm glad I threw the idea on here of what I wanted to do.... I knew it would throw up ideas...

In the time it took to do this latest image which is basically two separate systems (tanks could be linked.) TCLynx has come up with an option that is probably the ideal.

Of course a spider would be another great option.

Here's the latest image anyway.
Image

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PostPosted: Nov 22nd, '09, 09:33 
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Agree with TCLynx on the timers. I would not put too much faith on timers being in sync, although you could probably get it pretty close with digital timers... The risk is that if it loses battery, it loses its settings... Those mechanical ticking timers are very bad with repeatability, especially over time...

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PostPosted: Nov 22nd, '09, 09:44 
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Yeah I think i'd have to agree.... the less built into it at the start that can go wrong the better.

I would love to see a timer that can be on for 20 minutes off for 1 minute consistently though. I can believe its something that isnt already around.

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PostPosted: Nov 22nd, '09, 11:05 
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Been lots of talk about repeat cycle timers. They do exist (search hydroponic sites) and can be built too. I've built a version of one even. Novaris I think has built some for his system and might even be willing to help others out too. He has a far more complex controller going though for his system. Do a search and you will probably find the repeat cycle timer thread.

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PostPosted: Nov 22nd, '09, 11:52 
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So CHIFT PIST. This seems to also be a very simple failsafe system.

Does anyone have a 3000 lt tank raised up? Any issues? Its a great deal of weight and having little kids I don't want anything to fall over. I would need to lift it 40cm to make it work on this.

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