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PostPosted: Mar 26th, '11, 21:21 
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Hi guys Im located in Spearwood WA. As the title suggests Im doing a chift pist set up with two IBCs and one BYAP grow bed. Im using the flood and drain method with all the plumbing pumps ect...supplied from BYAP. So far I think I got everything I need except a stand for the GB. Tomorrow will be finding a stand, cutting IBC lids, washing my balls (hydroton) and setting up the pipe work. I will be making an SLO for the FT at a later date. And Ill keep you posted and ask questions here.
Any advice and comments will be appreciated :thumbleft: :thumbright:


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PostPosted: Mar 26th, '11, 22:20 
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:wave1: hi trev!! Good to see you started your own thread:)

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PostPosted: Mar 27th, '11, 06:02 
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:wave1: Hi Trev, looking good already!

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PostPosted: Mar 27th, '11, 21:24 
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Fishless cycling time
thanks Freo I drew some Ideas and inspiration from ya. I managed to cycle a little today and will do the fine tuning of the plumbing, water testing and setting pump times tomorrow. there is a lot of info on here about fishless cycling Ill be checking the threads now. I have 900lts capacity in each ST and FT 1800l in all.
Questions so far.

1) I added water from tap so how will this effect the system?
2) Urea, how long in hummonia will it take to convert to ammonia?
3) I`m thinking put a pinch of worm tea for the bacteria a pinch of aged hummonia for the ammonia and a pinch of emulsion in the system as nutrients for the plants. any recommendations on amounts and frequencies.


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PostPosted: Mar 27th, '11, 22:03 
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Well you are on your way...

1) Tap water is just fine if you left it cycle for a day at least before you add fish... and also fine during tank top-ups...
2) Hummonia (fresh pee) will show ammonia readings within 1-2 days...
3) Just add the worms in. And add some pee (maybe about 300ml). Test your water two days later, you want to get your ammonia reading to about 1 to 2ppm. If not, add pee again. After the ammonia reading is 1 to 2ppm (or higher), leave it alone. Test weekly...

Note that once you start on the fishless cycle route, you should never add fish until both ammonia and nitrite are zero.

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PostPosted: Mar 27th, '11, 23:51 
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Looking good! :thumbright:

It might be a good idea to change the orientation of some of the brick legs on your GB, so it's less vulnerable to knocks. One leg like this || and the next like =

Is that a roof downspout pointing right at your fish tank? You might want to point that in a different direction, so you don't find it excavating your tank during a hard rain! :oops:

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PostPosted: Mar 28th, '11, 00:57 
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Is that a roof downspout pointing right at your fish tank? You might want to point that in a different direction, so you don't find it excavating your tank during a hard rain! :oops:

It is but comes straight from the ceiling. Haven't had any rain since moving here yet to see what happens, Im thinking about carpeting some of the area around it all. The legs are tucked away enough and pretty firm might turn the middle ones if it worries me at any stage still think the height of the blocks are a bit on the piss tho.

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PostPosted: Mar 28th, '11, 05:46 
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You might want to put sleepers between the blocks and the growbed. Effectively you have the wieght of the growbed pressing on each block column. Putting a sleeper in would distribute the pressure.

Also, not sure if the growbeds can take the weight of water and hydroton being pressed into the corner of the brick. YOur looking at about 300kgs to 500kgs per growbed.

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PostPosted: Mar 28th, '11, 13:59 
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Ummm, yeah as VLT says, sleepers highly recommended... I'm surprised that it's actually held up being filled without some support under it...

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PostPosted: Mar 29th, '11, 10:44 
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:think:

Yeah seems ok for now. Since I took this photo Ive alligned the blocks a little more to the centres of the 6 sections of the GB. The surface area of the blocks are 200x300 but there is slight sag on the end farthest from the GB so will definately take advice and get something done about it as said above its better not to have the GB in contact with the stone. EB As for our concerns about the time of filling the FT, it starts draining to GB more or less straight away so 15mins ph pump time is good. Ive added slight ammount of eggshells as the ph was 8.2 some hummonia 300ml, 5ml of fish emultion. Will test for ph, nitrates and ammonia this afternoon. Maybe get some goldfish when the ph stabilizes and plant out when I get some nitrate readings. But slowly, slowly winst the race.

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PostPosted: Mar 29th, '11, 22:26 
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Ammonia level between 2.5 and .5
But Im concerned about ph 8.4 :think: will this stabilise when the system matures?

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PostPosted: Mar 29th, '11, 22:39 
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And the cycling begins :headbang:
Yeh ph will drop eventually but seeing as you haven't for fish you could try adding a few DROPS of hcl acid from "b" till it gets to just under 7 it will help bacteri grow

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PostPosted: Mar 29th, '11, 22:40 
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Oh and feel free to plant out now :)

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PostPosted: Mar 29th, '11, 22:43 
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Well I think egg shells increases pH...

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PostPosted: Mar 29th, '11, 22:43 
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ivansng wrote:
Well I think egg shells increases pH...

Yea it will ... I think :?

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