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PostPosted: Jul 20th, '18, 08:01 
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Yes 1000ml = 1Liter so it is 1 gm per liter.

No I haven't heard of anyone using it for AP. I'm a bit uneasy with the copper content in pink Himalayan salt. Copper is very toxic to fish and shellfish.

https://themeadow.com/pages/minerals-in-himalayan-pink-salt-spectral-analysis


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PostPosted: Jul 20th, '18, 08:37 
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I really appreciate you bearing with me, Dave and everyone else, I’ve never been apart of a forum. Below I’ll post a video I just uploaded to YouTube, I’ll put it in the beginners thread as well. Here’s my system. It took me about 1 month to get going with the help of my best friend.

https://youtu.be/82Mf8CFgORg


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PostPosted: Jul 20th, '18, 08:54 
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Hey all, I just added a small amount of sea salt to my system , I’ll add more tomorrow. For the time being, I had an idea. I’ve got a bunch of lakes around me where I live, what if I added duck weed to the aquarium. Would the duck weed filter out the nitrites from the fish tank?


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PostPosted: Jul 20th, '18, 09:12 
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No. Plants use up nitrAtes. Not nitrites or ammonia.

You really need to read up on cycling

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PostPosted: Jul 20th, '18, 14:23 
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Maybe I posted too soon.

Most plants take up nitrates. But I just read something suggesting duckweed uses ammonia directly.

Hopefully someone else will give more informed advice.

But getting duckweed from a local pond might carry a risk of introducing parts or disease to your system.

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PostPosted: Jul 21st, '18, 18:58 
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Hey Clasta, avoid doing anything too quick, that is a recipe for further issues.
Best bet is to follow the salt advice and ride this one out - you cannot afford to disrupt the bacteria establishment.
Fish are stressed and anything from the pond could easily kill them - and you will have to steralise/start-over etc.

24 x 1" fish is probably OK. Too many to cycle with but small enough they will hopefully get through.
You have your pictures going, so upload a couple of the system when you can.

Don't make a new member system thread - just stay with this one.

I would go with normal pure salt, nothing fancy.
You will need 1kg of it for a 500-700 Litre system (2ppt).

keep the water moving 24/7 and keep the air going.
Watch the nitrites and hopefully it start to drop rather than rise further - do not feed fish for a week.

you just got to ride this one out and put it to inexperience.
what happens will happen.

re: video and system setup - this can be addressed later, but until you have the cycling sorted just let it run.
This is the best chance your fish have.

Don't touch your system until this is over (couple weeks at least) - but spend some time reading up on and thinking about (a) your sump is too small and will need to be larger else any water loss and the pump will run dry. (b) you can avoid having 2 pumps by setting up a SLO from your fish tank as an overflow, then just 1 pump needed (c) check your media as Scotty notes. (d) review your media to fish ratio - the 24 fish will overload the bed waste processing capacity as they grow (e) as Dave notes the IBC grow bed looks too shallow - it will probably lose a lot of water to evaporation. Ideal is 12" or more - make sure it is at least filled to the top.

When videoing and putting up photos step right back and show a decent whole system overview, it is hard to figure stuff out when you are zoomed in all the time - in a forum like this post the pics as not many people will bother to load and watch the video.

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PostPosted: Jul 21st, '18, 20:15 
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How are those fish looking Clasta? I believe that tilapia are tough... so, with a little luck, all will be OK.

We can't keep tilapia in Australia - illegal in a big way. Pity because they're apparently ideal for Aquaponics.

+1 to all of the post above... particularly the SLO (solids lift overflow) in the fish tank. This would mean pumping from a larger sump - doesn't have to be huge because you're not using siphons - to growbed above fish tank. Then drain to fish tank then SLO to your half barrel growbeds. Then drain back to sump.

There are other simpler arrangements, but not while you have one growbed above the fish tank water level and others below. If I'm right in remembering you have it set up that way.

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PostPosted: Jul 21st, '18, 21:59 
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I took some advice from you guys and took a few photos of the system from different angles. Today I’m going out to find an ammonia test kit( I’ll get back to you on those results). I’m still adding salt a little bit at a time. Everything seems to be living atm. I don’t think there is much room to change the current system I have, as I fought long and hard to think of way I could make it work with the way I went about it. Unless the power goes out or the float switch in the sump goes bad, the pump won’t run dry, it operates very well. When the water in the sump gets too low, the pump connected with the float switch shuts off as it should and turns back on we’ll before it starts overflowing. Not losing any water to overflow. However to your point about the bed over the aquarium being too shallow, I’m regards to evaporation. It may be too shallow but I can’t go back now, the media is all the way to the top with the water about an inch below the surface. I built the gaurd around the outside to act as a dual purpose frame and fence for the media.


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PostPosted: Jul 22nd, '18, 08:41 
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Water test is about what I would expect and doesn't look like there is any problem at this point.

The system looks good overall except for the point about having two pumps which I understand. My inclination would still be to run the system with one pump located in the sump and to use a Solids Lifting Overflow (SLO) from the tank. Keep the second pump as a backup. This would give you more control of the water velocity going out of the tank because you could loop some of the flow from the pump straight back into the sump. Might not be that important but I'm not sure how the velocity is affecting these tiny tilapia. Maybe when they weren't moving on the bottom it was because they were exhausted :dontknow: .

The only way that I would expect ammonia or nitrite to have been an issue is if there was a problem during transport to your home or if your source water contains some. These fish would be hard pressed to eat enough to cause problems in that volume of water.

Because these are so young they shouldn't go too long without food - they aren't quite as durable as the adults. I'd probably start feeding them again but not real heavy until you're certain the ammonia is low (basically when your test kit gets there).

Stop netting the fish and changing all the water! This stresses out the fish and just means you have to salt the water all over again. Add some shade cloth around the tank for now to make it a bit darker and let them settle in.

With all the splashing you've got the tank has as much oxygen as you can get into it without aeration using an oxygen cylinder. Even if the water temp is 90F or higher this should be plenty for the Tilapia.

I think you're doing fine and I made a lot of the same mistakes when I started. Heck, I'm still making mistakes, it's all part of the process :headbang:

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PostPosted: Jul 22nd, '18, 11:01 
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those test results look positive.
pH in the 7's is good.
the pink/red tinge is dropping in the NO2 from previous pics.
maybe the spike is over - few more tests will tell.

you should be OK to feed the fish small amounts every 2nd day.
and once checked ammonia checked and if colors stay same then maybe even once day.

need to get some plants in. Think about some punnets of green leaf seedlings - Asian greens or lettuce or spinach. Your nitrates are not rising too significantly at the moment.

the pics are good - much more easy to see it all in context, The rim around the grow bed helps.
you actually have quite a few future options with that space - presume barrels etc are in sun.
You have quite a bit of media - more than enough for time being while the fish are small, wasn't clear in video.
so shouldn't have too much issue once cycling completed and veg in place.

You could get a SLO set up as a chift-pist quite easily in that space.
The current alternate is to SLO out of the fish tank around to the barrels first and have a low grow bed with sump underneath at end and pump up out of that. See the wall creates a minor issue but even if you pulled the fish tank slightly past end of wall it would work easy. And raise IBC up on couple more pallets to get height.
1 or 2 small 1" hole in the wall would be a bonus but I can see that may not appeal.

Put a larger tub/or cut off IBC (60-40) as a sump underneath or at either end of the grow bed/s.
Have water going sump via pump to fish tank, overflow to grow bed#1, and then grow bed #2 and then to your barrels, then via pipe back to the sump.

Fish like being in shade anyway so Mark-II option (everyone goes Mark-II within 12 months) would be to move the fish tank in close to the house if you have room - fish don't want/need full sun.
Put grow bed / or a deeper 'future' grow bed beside the fish tank and raise the fish tank on pallets so the water flows out of the fish tank and onto the bed (that will support a SLO). Put decent volume sump underneath.
use the current shallow IBC as either a DWC or a shallow bed as bed #2 for lettuce/light greens etc.


hang on in the forum because you have a few more phases to go through yet before it all settles down.
AP is a patience game and mostly the things you are going through only really apply during the new system phase - first 3-6 months. Even the testing etc drops off once the system is stable.

*Don't add anything yet* and as Scotty notes try not to touch the system/fish,
but heads up: with small fish and growing plants you will need to source a low Nitrogen / low phosphorous liquid fertiliser (seaweed based ones with minimum added N & P are ideal). You will need that in a short while to get plants established.

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PostPosted: Jul 23rd, '18, 01:26 
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Wow I’m blown away @ Scotty and @dif Perth for your consistent feedback. All of you guys have truly helped me getting everything to a manageable level. I cannot thank you enough for all of your information and tips. :cheers:

I will keep posting here regularly, expect to see more updates soon. As for the additions you mentioned. All of that sounds extremely viable, but I want to run a cycle of produce through first to see what happens with my first mock up. Hopefully I get some good tied in the coming months, should be getting those ammonia test kits in soon. I can’t wait to see those results. I’ll make a trip up to the local PetsMart and grab some fish food. I think the shade idea may be the way to go, so if I have time today I’ll stop by Home Depot and gather materials for a “shady project” hahaha. I’m going to do more research on the SLO you guys have mentioned and maybe incorporate a swirl filter in the extra space I have. I like the sound of that.

Other than that, I have one question left for now. Should I still be salting my tank or am I good to leave it as is. Currently I only have about 160grams of salt in now.


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PostPosted: Jul 23rd, '18, 03:48 
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Salting is optional but a good idea. Strawberries have troubles even at this level of salt so if you plan on growing those I would hold off on the salt (assuming the fish look OK). If you're in any doubt about the fish or aren't growing strawberries then I'd salt. Using your rough 1000L for the system volume you'd need to add more salt. For 1 gm per L in addition to the 160 gm already in your system, you'd need to add an 840 gm.

I hope I'm not to late on this but you should know that most flake foods are designed more for maintenance than for growth and won't do as good a job with helping to grow the plants. Just use whatever you got (flake or pellet) and don't worry about this for the time being because you'll have to supplement anyway (your fish are too small to generate enough waste without some help). Lets see how the water parameters go for a bit and make certain your system is cycled - by this I mean that ammonia is converted to nitrite and then to nitrate which the plants can use.


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PostPosted: Jul 23rd, '18, 05:45 
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I went and picked up a few goodies. I read up on liquid fertilizer and found a few options. Just need some pointers on which one is better. Also the seaweed looked like something good to try. Picked up flakes as well just for the sake of having a back up if the seaweed doesn’t go well.


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Last edited by clasta33428 on Jul 23rd, '18, 06:56, edited 1 time in total.
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PostPosted: Jul 23rd, '18, 06:47 
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You're looking for a fertilizer or supplement that has a slow release of nitrogen not something that will release a lot of ammonia all at once which can kill the fish. Blood and Bone has been used and is just sprinkled on the grow bed - do a search and you should find the amounts. If you're concerned about Bovine Spongiform Encephalitis then you might need to find something other than Blood and Bone. BSE is very uncommon in the US and Australia but not so in Britain. You should know that both of these are often components of fish food but as with anything use at your own risk.


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PostPosted: Jul 23rd, '18, 07:06 
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Also


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