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PostPosted: Jan 31st, '15, 21:36 
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Getting down to the nitty, gritty on the plumbing in the new RAS. Should I put knife/ball valves on both sides of my netting and MBBR filters? They're 3" and almost $30.00 a pop. I know I need one on the suction side of the pump as well as the discharge side, so I can quickly swap out a bad pump. I also know I need one for every inlet for each FT, water and air...total 32, as well as every drain...total 32. Should be at about 75 by the time I'm done. Good thing I get a good deal on them. The 1" I'm getting for under $3.00, 3/2, and 1/2 much less. But the 3" are pricey.


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PostPosted: Feb 2nd, '15, 02:51 
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Hi Coachchris
You know far more than I do on the requirements for RAS system so I guess this is rhetorical question.
I can see the need for isolating an MBBF less so for a net filter.
$30?
Your build looks great!
Step back have a beer and enjoy your achievements.
The fun is only just beginning

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PostPosted: Feb 2nd, '15, 04:39 
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Titus, thanks. I'm doing just that...sitting back and drinking a beer. My shade cloth/netting filter flows directly to my MBBR filter, so I can stop both by closing 1 valve at the inlet to netting filter. I'll need to shut off pump anyways, because without the filters running, the Ft's will overflow pretty quickly. I hope I'm not going to have to change the netting filters daily, but pretty sure I will. lol Will be saving for that RDF, so I can kind of automate that part at least. Pretty excited as we get the supply line and air lines run. It's finally coming together. Still need to build the air manifolds for the big tanks and the juvi tanks, but that shouldn't be too bad. It's really a lot of plumbing when you consider bottom drain, side drain, supply line and air lines. 4 separate systems all with at least some 3" PVC, which of course is where it get expensive. The 2" and smaller is reasonable. 3-4" gets up there quickly. If i ever do the hydroponic portion and Gh, I'll need 6". Then your talking some real money. Will need to have some serious buyers before I sink that kind of money in. Right now, just enjoying eating and a little revenue from the hot sauce and hopefully be able to pay off the AS system in a few years with the tilapia. Crunching the numbers, it looks like it's possible...if everything goes right...which it rarely does. Keeps me out of the bars I guess. :D
Go Seahawks. Got a little action on Seattle. Baby needs some new shoes.


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PostPosted: Feb 2nd, '15, 06:17 
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Hi Coachchris
I have been struggling with 110mm pipe all day. This is for the drain of the NFT and the new trickle filter. iI’s big pipe and hard to handle. 6 inch! OMG!
Ryan commented on an airline thread of mine recently. Currently I am using 4/6 mm silicone tubing.
My new NFT requires 10mm tubing. Only available here in 30 m lengths. I need six mtrs. So 24 mtrs spare.
I was thinking of using the extra for an air line system.
I know Ryan used 22mm but this is back yard and I have the 10mm pipe
Any tips for running an air system?
PS wait till baby is 24 and phones you from Milan: Collect, “ Oh Dad I have just seen these great Gucci shoes”...........................

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PostPosted: Feb 2nd, '15, 06:31 
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Mate if you even have the slightest believe that some where down the track you might need valves there then pay the price. Mine is designed to separate all units for maintenance or replacement and the only one I can not is the RFF from the fish tanks. This is a 65 mm pipe and the price for a valve here would be beyond my account.

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PostPosted: Feb 2nd, '15, 22:04 
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C.c.bear, good idea. Just thought of a potential problem this am. We left a 2" drain line capped off to be able to add the future fourth grow out tank. I almost didn't add a ball valve keep on it. It would have been pretty hard to glue a new drain in, without that ball valve.


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PostPosted: Feb 2nd, '15, 22:12 
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CC, I'm lucky in that I have a commercial account and can get the ball valve pretty cheap. My cost on the 65 mm is only about $20.00. Only $2.50 for 1", and less for 3/4 @ 1/2". But 3" and up, they jump pretty quick. Almost $30.00 for a 3" ball. I can get the 3" knife for 28.00.


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PostPosted: Feb 3rd, '15, 03:41 
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Seriously, this cant be healthy.
Seriously, this cant be healthy.
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coachchris wrote:
I know I need one on the suction side of the pump as well as the discharge side, so I can quickly swap out a bad pump. I also know I need one for every inlet for each FT, water and air...total 32, as well as every drain...total 32.

If you wanted to trim anywhere the valves on the drains can be left out by using standpipes to control water level rather than a valve. IF you use a valve then the tanks will drain to the low point where ever that is. If you use a standpipe then the tank will stay almost full.

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PostPosted: Feb 3rd, '15, 05:15 
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coachchris wrote:
. We left a 2" drain line capped off to be able to add the future fourth grow out tank. I almost didn't add a ball valve keep on it.

Just a consideration... a simple end cap but with extra tube, is fine..

Just cut off cap, leaving 1/4" of tube on the cap.. This can be reused..
Just paint inside tube with solvent glue and burn off.. repeat a few times an just prise the old tube out..

Fit the new valve and you are off again...

And back to the OP... re valves on filter.. only thought.. WHY would ever use them, except to remove the whole device..
If you think you might need to remove, then HOW...
Likely you would have barrel unions anyway..

Just turn off the pump and open the barrel unions and remove filter.. you could have a dummy pipe length to fit back as a bypass whilst working on the filter..
..
.


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