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PostPosted: Dec 2nd, '13, 11:57 
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What if you put it it around the outside of your grow tank so the snail got zapped before climbing in ?

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PostPosted: Dec 2nd, '13, 12:24 
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Snags wrote:
What if you put it it around the outside of your grow tank so the snail got zapped before climbing in ?
Got it.. thanks, Snags.

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PostPosted: Dec 2nd, '13, 12:33 
Might work around the raised beds... but I wouldn't put it around the soil beds.. where run off could result in copper getting into the AP system...


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PostPosted: Dec 3rd, '13, 01:38 
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Yes, around raised beds only.

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PostPosted: Dec 3rd, '13, 05:22 
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Snails need to climb so if your sytem was on legs just some on the legs would work
Or anywhere below the water line that was an access point.on the outside of the system
or
get ducks they love snails or a blue tongue. to patrol the perimeter.

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PostPosted: Feb 20th, '14, 16:12 
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This has been a very informative thread, thanks to those that have contributed their knowledge/experience. I'm interested in reducing the amount of fish feed that I have to buy. It seems that a percentage of duckweed and worms from vermicomposting, as well as a small amount of BSF form a good starting point for supplementation/replacement of commercial feed.

I have three main questions:

1.What are the possibilities of raising algae/tadpoles/small fish/water hyacinth in opaque tanks (I have access to 175 gal square totes) fed by a nutritive oxygenated tea of finely chopped greenwaste/compost/vermicompost/bsf lechate? Basically an actively aerated compost and nutritive tea. It seems that the algae and associated life strained out and fed either wet or in cakes would be a very diverse feed for tilapia. Does anyone have experience trying something like this? Would a compost lechate that isn't oxygenated feed the algae better?

2.Second, what specifically is in commercial fish feed besides omega three fatty acid that is not in a well rounded home grown diet of algae/duckweed/water hyacinth/worms/bsf?

3. Would partially drying home made feed (especially water plants and algae) make a positive difference in the speed of fish raised on home grown feed?

I'm just getting my feet wet again, so to speak, building a new system after doing a small barrelponics system 8 years ago. So any information by knowledgeable folks would be much appreciated. Thanks for any help you might have.


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PostPosted: Mar 11th, '14, 23:38 
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My Tilapia will eat peanuts if I dice them up. I know they are high in fat, but not sure on the long term effects. I also feed them duckweed grown on site and diced up earthworms from my vermicomposter for protien. Seems like a good combo so far but I would like to test the growth rate vs a commercial fish food. I'm sure my method wouldn't do as well, but if I get 90% of the growth at 10% of the cost, it will be fine enough for me.

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PostPosted: Mar 12th, '14, 00:45 
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If growth rates are not a factor, the key is at make sure you are adding the amount of nutrients you are removing. The next key is that you are not harming your fish with what you are feeding them. BSFL alone is harmful, as is duckweed. Dried duckweed is pretty good, as is defatted BSFL. Drying duckweed is probably not too labor intensive, just scoop some out and lay it out to dry. Defatting BSFL... A tad more complicated, but the fat would probably be great as a biofuel.

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PostPosted: Apr 5th, '14, 08:03 
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This seems to be an active discussion on several topics. Reading through it brought a few questions to mind.

1. How does the lights above the fish tank work? Does it have to be a bug light to zap the bugs and then they fall into the tank? Would a underwater light bulb work close to the surface so the bugs land on the water and the fish feed on them?

2. Manure in AP. What happens if you use frogs and/or lizards around your GB? I saw a frog in Murry's DVD, he seemed fine with it. Are amphibious and reptilians OK then? I thought of using both as bug control but didn't know about the poo.

3. What if you had a separate "dirty" system where all your waste can go? I butcher ducks and rabbits and hate to see all the scrapes go in the trash, especially since my ducks are mainly free ranged. What about a Yabbie / duck weed. How far removed does the "waste" need to be from the fish feed? Are BSF the only way to reclaim animal carcases? My first BSF failed because I couldn't keep their home at the right temperature.

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PostPosted: Apr 5th, '14, 09:31 
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Meat meal is generally available from your local stock feed agent. The closer you have an abbatoir the cheaper it will be. Its a waste stream with high protein and fat content. Should be able to get it around $1.5/kg in australia. Would be much cheaper in the US


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PostPosted: Apr 5th, '14, 10:29 
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Questions answered.

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PostPosted: Apr 5th, '14, 11:32 
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Can you a hang a food scrap and carrion bucket over the fish tank for the maggots to fall into? Like they are doing here for chickens? Seems much easier then the BSF harvester.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LkwHjMU8iPk

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PostPosted: Apr 5th, '14, 12:35 
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jwnova99 wrote:
Can you a hang a food scrap and carrion bucket over the fish tank for the maggots to fall into? Like they are doing here for chickens? Seems much easier then the BSF harvester.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LkwHjMU8iPk

Very interesting. Are maggots a ideal food for tilapia or other fish.

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PostPosted: Apr 5th, '14, 12:54 
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Seriously, this cant be healthy.
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Maggots are a good feed supplement for many fish but they are very high in fat. If you feed your fish too many then they will get fatty liver disease.

The advantage of BSF is that they are clean maggots as distinct from ones falling directly out of rotting manure, food scraps and meat.

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PostPosted: Apr 5th, '14, 15:17 
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Old thread along these lines - http://www.backyardaquaponics.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=26&t=8531&p=251270&hilit=bsf+alternative#p251270


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