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 Post subject: Tomato Fruiting Hint
PostPosted: Jun 25th, '07, 14:15 
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This has worked for me for years:

Prune all lateral growth below your first fruiting stem.

Prune most other lateral growth that does not have flowers, leaving the top 20cm of new growth. In time you will be able to assess non fruiting new growth very quickly. Be ruthless and prune this growth as soon as you recognize it. You want ur plants energy going in to fruit and flowers.

Stake ur plant and also support the parts of the plant that are heavy with fruit/flowers.

You will end up with plants that won't win beauty contests but will win yield contests. Tomatoes also like to have some wind movement around the plant and getting rid of excess vegetative growth helps this.

Hope this helps.


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 Post subject: Re: Tomato Fruiting Hint
PostPosted: Jun 25th, '07, 15:00 
TT is on the money about pruning laterals, and excess leaves.... you can get to the stage where you can effectively "train" your growth laterally....

Not pretty, but effective...


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PostPosted: Jun 25th, '07, 15:02 
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read that once, but lost my nerve when doing it ;)

obviously works guys. good one.

Was sure i read somewhere that the plants used energy reserves in leaves to assist in flowering? dunno

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 Post subject: Re: Tomato Fruiting Hint
PostPosted: Jun 25th, '07, 15:03 
And the commercial hydroponoic tomato houses are even more savage...

The plants are actually lowered as they grow and fruit....

(Pic is of Jim Farr and his auto pot system, but uses the same technique as applied throughout the industry)


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PostPosted: Jun 25th, '07, 15:04 
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OK, you got me with that one :) is it just new lateral grwoth thats trimmed, or the old as well?

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PostPosted: Jun 25th, '07, 15:06 
Once they've flowered and the fruit has set, the lower leaves are essentially superfulous and begin to die off....

In the mean time, being larger, they just transpire larger amounts of water and burn plant sugars for no effective purpose..... lop them.


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PostPosted: Jun 25th, '07, 15:19 
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Predominantly the case with determinate varieties. Indeterminate are lowered on strings along the ground, with old growth being cut off. No lateral training however. Our stems are often allowed to lay along the ground up to 15 feet or so.

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PostPosted: Jun 25th, '07, 15:21 
Got any pics to show people what you mean raimiuso :wink:


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PostPosted: Jun 25th, '07, 16:12 
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Thanx for the pics Rupe, i didn't have any and it is worth a thousand words as they say.


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PostPosted: Jun 25th, '07, 21:19 
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is there any better way to tie up the tommies?
everytime i try and string a tomato stalk it dies after awhile, even if I leave it quite loose.
is there like a tape or something? or even rubber ties. I know you can get rubber ties for larger plants, is there something similar for the smaller ones?


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PostPosted: Jun 25th, '07, 21:22 
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panty hose is good for plant ties (now shush you lot :waggingfinger: )

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PostPosted: Jun 25th, '07, 21:26 
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i used strips of rag to tie mine up about an 2.5 cm wide and as long as you need


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PostPosted: Jun 25th, '07, 21:28 
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who has pantyhose these days, well my wife doesn't that is for sure. the only pantyhose I see is on the net (and that usually is in the form of spam or popups!)


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PostPosted: Jun 25th, '07, 21:29 
Tie them around the stalk, cross them between the stalk and the stake and tie around the stake.... basically a figure eight....

gives support but allows movement.... can be easily loosened if needed.


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PostPosted: Jun 25th, '07, 21:45 
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I use cages for my tommies. I just weave the stems back into the cage if they get out of hand!

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