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PostPosted: Oct 20th, '09, 04:11 
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Hmm you know, the seaweed thing might be a good idea for me. Here in Hawaii we have this invasive seaweed that people pull off the reef by the tons. Its insane.

I bet if I wash it and dry it and then bury it in the GB it will help. Hmm might be worth a shot. I know the taro farmers use it for fertilizer. I wonder how they do it...


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PostPosted: Oct 20th, '09, 04:28 
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Heck, you could just take it wet, rinse it, toss into blender with a bit of fresh water, then dump slurry into growbed. Just be very careful not to overload by adding too much at once....and what would constitute "too much" would require some thought and testing.....

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PostPosted: Oct 20th, '09, 06:22 
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Perhaps instead of burying it directly in the grow beds (which will add lots of nitrogen) you might be better off drying it and then making a tea with it. then dilute and use the tea for the trace nutrients and put the spent seaweed in the compost or worm bin.

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PostPosted: Sep 16th, '10, 06:30 
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so dosage of everything is very very low.

Extrapolating down, I should add just a teaspoon of chelated iron (iron sulphate) to my 70 liter system yes?

Also, in this thread its also mentioned that it, chelated iron, can be used as a foliar spray, but it says on the box not to do this?

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PostPosted: Sep 16th, '10, 13:18 
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abdul, i use 2 tsp in my 1000L system, so you might want to use a little less, maby 2/3 or 1/2??

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PostPosted: Sep 16th, '10, 22:32 
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abdul wrote:
Also, in this thread its also mentioned that it, chelated iron, can be used as a foliar spray, but it says on the box not to do this?


http://extension.usu.edu/files/publicat ... -SO-01.pdf
According to this paper, it may cause leaf burning, so wisdom would dictate research on safe concentrations before spraying an entire plant.....
You would probably need to use a lower concentration than listed on the containerfor soil applications. Experiment with a single leaf of a plant.

I'm not sure what would be a good fish-safe wetting agent to make the stuff spread out on leaves.

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PostPosted: Sep 17th, '10, 01:09 
And don't ever foliar feed on hot days... mix applications... or apply more than once or twice weekly...

A sure fired way to result in "tip burn"...


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PostPosted: Sep 17th, '10, 03:50 
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So far just added a bit of it into the inspection tube in my GB. Think may be been a teaspoon or just a little under that. lets see how it works out. Won't know for sure for a couple of days. I may be dosing with iron in response to a potassium deficiency.

No input on the sulphate of potash yet though, no idea if its AP safe or not :dontknow:

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PostPosted: Jun 13th, '11, 21:50 
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Food and Fish (and also anyone else this applies to)

I saw that you are adding worm juice (unless I read incorrectly). Do you mean the liquid that comes off the bottom of a worm bin or do you mean a tea made with castings? In either case, how much are you adding (and how much water are you flowing) and how often?

Thanks!


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PostPosted: Jun 14th, '11, 04:49 
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i do my readings every week - then i foliar spray with seasol one week then worm tea the next - every so often i add iron chelates to the fish tank

carna pies!!!! :headbang: :headbang: :headbang:


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PostPosted: Jun 14th, '11, 18:10 
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Ah - ok - I thought you were adding it in rather than spraying the leaves. Thanks


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PostPosted: Jun 15th, '11, 20:54 
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I foliar feed every two weeks with Thrive and soluble trace elements. I add these at half strength with a pressure mister spray. I also add chelated iron on a monthly basis.

I add Seasol on a weekly basis at a very weak rate (1 cap full to my 1,000 litre tank). I am not 100 % sold on the Seasol... After all there is nothing scientific about it's use. It does not even have a chemical nutrient breakdown on the bottle or web site... I use is because I bought some while ago and need to use it up.

What are others serious thoughts about Seasol? Has anyone done trials to scientifically prove it's worth?

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PostPosted: Jun 16th, '11, 06:02 
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Wasent a trial as such but when we had the farm i had 3 tomatoes in a sun room in identicle pots one with water one with seasol one with charley carp the charley carp one one seasol second and we still got tomms off the water one sadley i dident have a camera or a pooter then

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PostPosted: Aug 22nd, '11, 11:54 
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Earlier I wanted to have a hydroponic system then later changed my game plan to aquaponic, I've read these sources which may help to support the dosing of Iron Chelates (EDTA Iron). The articles are about making your own hydroponic fertilizer but I think it is also applicable to aquaponic.

Hydro Juice - Trace element requirements (It says 79 grams EDTA Iron per 1000liters)
http://busiweb.tripod.com/hydro/juice.htm

Hydroponic Fertilizer and some tips with Iron Chelate
http://library.thinkquest.org/C0110342/lessonplan/lesson3.html


I'd like to throw out a question too because I've found some for and against advices on the usage of steel bars in the bed or in the water. I read somewhere here Rupe said it doesn't work and some other said it works. Myself, I haven't seen iron deficiency in my system as I do have some steel wires in my biofilter and also some steel sheets to supplement iron in the system. The plants seems fine but again, I've never removed them and see if it does affect the system; the iron could have been sufficient in the pellet. So what is it? Are steel bars a good way to supply iron to the system?

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PostPosted: Oct 25th, '11, 05:12 
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having trout in my system demands for a continuos monitoring and better product than maxicrop, the hydroponic market is expanding, so it's product line, I've been testing out 3 type of different nutriment (certified organic ) they are not cheap but are very concentrate and needs less.
1) CANNA flores
2 )BIOBIZZ bloom
3 ) B.A.C organic PK boost
4 ) B.A.C organic Bloom
plus adding 2tbs(to 1500lt) of chelate iron monthly
also I have a wormculture and make my brewing from the compost monthly, adding woodhash to the mix to benefit of potassium in an organic form.


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