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PostPosted: Dec 6th, '11, 23:00 
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Location: Chiang Mai, NW Thailand.
I think once a system is fully cycled and settled, there is no need to do stuff manually.
Unless you want to have crazy stocking densities, why make more work?
In AP all the work is done by the pump :)

PS. Who buys Ma Room? ;)

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PostPosted: Dec 7th, '11, 01:01 
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Ha Ha Thai people buy Maroom

I think AP, RAS and Hydro together, has week point.
You have to compromise fish & plant need, Temp., pH, salt etc.
Even level if your plant and fishtank have very diff. in level you will lost energy, pump up and down.

But if you separate it in to two.
You can have different temp pH salinity. You can even do RAS in basement and hydo on the roof.

My long term goal is also commercial system.
So It's should be less investment if we can start only on RAS first.
Start business in both fish and Hydroponics is too heavy, in term of skill & knowledge.
When your fish pooh is ready, 12 month, for plant then start hydroponics.


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PostPosted: Dec 7th, '11, 01:06 
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Interesting idea.
But a warning, my friend has a RAS farm.
His fish were almost ready to sell and he got some disease (I think from an infected net from company coming to take samples)
He lost almost all his fish.

We have a saying in English, "Don't put all your eggs in one basket"
Another reason why AP is so good (especially from a commercial aspect)

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PostPosted: Dec 7th, '11, 13:14 
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One of the thing's I have noticed is that it is very important to make sure you have good Quarantine systems in place.

1 of the most important thing is to make sure that no foreign nets and such are used.. Always supply your own net's..
If you are going to introduce foreign net's make sure that they get PP'd/sterilised before they get used..

If you have multiple tanks, that are isolated from each other make sure you have separate gear for each tank..
ie tub's, net's.. and everything else..

If you have separate system.. You could do the process of introducing small amount's of water from each system into the other's, say about 100ml do this every few day's.. Don't do massive amount's..
This will slowly introduce foreign organism to each tank..
ie.

Tank 1 contains A B C organism's
Tank 2 contains X Y Z organism's

All fish in each tank are immune to their own group of organism's, but not immune to the stuff in the other tanks.. By introducing small amounts into each tank you give the fish a chance to build up an immune response to the new organism's.

It takes time to build a response to the new environment..


Juergen

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PostPosted: Mar 6th, '12, 06:37 
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Hey

I planted 10 moringa tree seeds - I have heard that they are difficult to get to germinate....

it's been 10 days and so far I have a 90% germination rate.... yeah!!!!


Attachments:
File comment: sorry about the quality of the picture... this was taken with 60% germination... three more have popped up in the last 3 days
moringa seedlings - just starting.jpg
moringa seedlings - just starting.jpg [ 381.4 KiB | Viewed 1168 times ]

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PostPosted: Jun 15th, '14, 13:00 
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Hi all,

I'm a newbie to AP and I just got my simple set up of flood and drain consist of 2 FT and 3 GB with 41 tilapia fingerlings. Initially I started feeding the fish with pellets then on the 2nd day with dried moringa flakes and they are crazy on feeding with the moringa. Now, they don't even want to eat the pellets anymore. Just added another alternative leaves for them called Hyacith Beans or Lab-Lab. Moringa and Hyacinth Beans has a high protein content.I've heard that Ipil-ipil and the cassava leaves are good for the fish too.


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