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PostPosted: Jul 8th, '14, 18:00 
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If you end up going ahead with this can you post some photos of what you print Domani.. very interesting


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PostPosted: Jul 9th, '14, 10:13 
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Stuart Chignell wrote:
0.1mm?

Should be no problem with a good quality desktop 3D printer. Since a hole is just a place where no filament is deposited, the machine just has to be fine enough to skip an area of 1mm2. For that I think you can look in the specs of a printer.

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PostPosted: Jul 9th, '14, 10:15 
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Domani wrote:
Stuart Chignell wrote:
0.1mm?

Should be no problem with a good quality desktop 3D printer. Since a hole is just a place where no filament is deposited, the machine just has to be fine enough to skip an area of 1mm2. For that I think you can look in the specs of a printer.


How strong is something that you'd print?

Would it be able to hold up to a pressure pipe?

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PostPosted: Jul 9th, '14, 10:18 
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Yavimaya wrote:
Domani wrote:
Threads can be printed as well, no need for tap and die.

I like the idea of the Venturi though. That could be a next one to try out. Good thing of these printers is, that only your imagination limits its possibilities (and of course the material, steel not possible yet).



How does the injection system work? do you have to buy special sticks of material or can you fill a canister?

if you can fill some container, JB weld may make a good substitute?
or maybe it wont and will ruin your machine. :P

A plastic (ABS, FLA, Nylon or Rubber) filament (a bit like a plastic string) is fed into an extruder, which heats it up and pushes it out, making layers of plastic and fusing them together into a model.

The filaments are readily for sale, but still a bit on the expensive side. You also can make them yourself, but that requires some nice tinkering with all kinds of electronics and the like.

The plastic has to be suitable for the process. JB weld might work, look at the specs for it.

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PostPosted: Jul 9th, '14, 10:20 
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jono81 wrote:
If you end up going ahead with this can you post some photos of what you print Domani.. very interesting

I'll make some shots today of a couple of prints I made until now. and post them here.

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PostPosted: Jul 9th, '14, 10:22 
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Colum Black-Byron wrote:
Domani wrote:
Stuart Chignell wrote:
0.1mm?

Should be no problem with a good quality desktop 3D printer. Since a hole is just a place where no filament is deposited, the machine just has to be fine enough to skip an area of 1mm2. For that I think you can look in the specs of a printer.


How strong is something that you'd print?

Would it be able to hold up to a pressure pipe?

The material used is ABS or FLA, in general. Pretty strong stuff, I thought. But all depends on your design and the application. The stuff I printed, I through around and bashed it to the ground. No damage.

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PostPosted: Jul 9th, '14, 10:52 
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So, here some of the items I've printed until now.

The top one is a corner piece for putting acrylic boxes (or other plate material, like plywood or glass) together. I designed it to be easy to use and once the box is put together like this, it will be very strong to.

On the left is the "impossible gear bearing". This one can only be made by 3D printers. Can be used as normal bearing and/or thrust bearing. More about it here http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:53451. It shows what is possible with 3D printing.

The right one is a normal ball bearing.

Materials all ABS and all pieces are printed in one go, than the parts are broken loose to make it all work.

I think a 3D printer can be very useful for AP'ers that like to tinker with things and come up with their own solutions for AP problems. Being able to design something in SU and then print it out to see how it works in real life will make things much easier in the future.


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File comment: Some items I've printed until now
3d print examples.jpg
3d print examples.jpg [ 372.49 KiB | Viewed 2136 times ]

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PostPosted: Jul 9th, '14, 11:07 
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Seriously, this cant be healthy.
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I got to get me one of these.

Any recommendations?

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PostPosted: Jul 9th, '14, 11:12 
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I does look very good quality, I can't see the lines where the different layer connect. They usually look messy.

Or did you use the acetone trick on it?

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PostPosted: Jul 9th, '14, 11:21 
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I have an Up!Plus 2 with a build volume of 140 x 140 x 135 mm. It's a neat little desktop 3D printer and got pretty good reviews. It's typically a starter printer, i.e. plug and play and within 15 minutes you're printing with it. Check their website out for more details http://3dprintingsystems.com, in Oz. At the moment they have a good deal for 2 printers for the price of one (you pay for the most expensive one, of course).

If you're not scared of building one yourself, there are plenty of kits available or you can source the parts on your own and put one together with help of open source websites. Thingyverse is a good one to look around for ideas and options. In this category I found a nice one, the Rostock MAX. It's available as a kit and has a whopping build volume of 11" by 14.5" (over 1300 cubic inches). It requires some more fine tuning and you have to build it up yourself from the complete kit. http://seemecnc.com/products/rostock-max-complete-kit for more details.

Go and have a look around, there is plenty of info available everywhere on the web.

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PostPosted: Jul 9th, '14, 11:22 
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Colum Black-Byron wrote:
I does look very good quality, I can't see the lines where the different layer connect. They usually look messy.

Or did you use the acetone trick on it?

No, didn't do that one. Will try it later on models that really need a shiny and professional finish. Those prints were made with a layer resolution of 0.15mm. The high end machines can do around 0.05 to 0.10mm. The difference is hardly visible, the big ones only print much faster.

Made a tool rack last night on layer res 0.30mm. Still looks very, very good!

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Last edited by Domani on Jul 9th, '14, 11:24, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Jul 9th, '14, 11:24 
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How durable would the bearings be?

Only suitable for low speeds?

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PostPosted: Jul 9th, '14, 11:27 
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As you can imagine, using ABS or plastics as bearings in high speed environments will not work out. Temps might get to high and the stuff melts. I recommend to use them in low speed environments and with moderate loads on them, to avoid friction heat building up.

I have no empirical data about the use of these bearings. Maybe on the web somewhere?

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PostPosted: Jul 9th, '14, 11:28 
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BTW, I'm looking for a Rostock Max as a next 3D printer. Given that there is no better option available when that time comes.

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PostPosted: Jul 9th, '14, 11:35 
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Example of SU design with these Box Devils (in red) on it.


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Devil's Cube with Box Devils.jpg
Devil's Cube with Box Devils.jpg [ 110.36 KiB | Viewed 2123 times ]

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