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PostPosted: Jan 29th, '09, 00:51 
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Also forgot to mention, avoid trademark infringement, which includes logos and company names. Do not use trademarks, including proper business names of companies, if they are going to get anal about it and don't want their business name spread by word of mouth. :)


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PostPosted: Jan 29th, '09, 03:39 
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can i get a simple pic showing how this (flow paths)works using the 2 drums? Did you go with the soda bottle caps?


No bottle caps, I needed a LOT of surface area for bacteria so I purchased the "replacement" media which ended up being nothing more than LDPE beads used for injection equipment.

Its pretty much like the patent, only my air tube is on the outside. A pipe is passed all the way through the drum (uniseals) and I drilled a .25 inch hole every few inches. Watch the whole video. All the parts are noted.

Another improvement I think needs to be done is to use 3 inch pipe for my inlet and outlet screen. This would avoid any back pressure on the system.

I have found that some beads are drawn into the air chamber so it is important to have a large and smooth enough air tube to allow the beads to be drawn through the air tube for return to the filter area. Otherwise, the air chamber gets full of beads. Having a large area for the dirty water to move down will also avoid pulling beads down in a fast moving current. Smaller air volumes will also work. I am currently building a new air tube that fits inside the dirty water down tube.

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I'm going to give one of these a shot. I think I'll try to use a 5 gallon bucket for a charge chamber and put it in the bottom of a 30 gallon plastic barrel.


That is a very good way to do it. A olive barrel would be perfect. Most barrels are HDPE and most buckets are at least LDPE so you can heat weld them together. My 30 gallon air drum is way to much air! Wish I could get an olive oil drum with a screw on top!

This self cleaning bead filter is keeping 150 tilapia over winter in clear ammonia free water. With a 30 gallon drum I can put off draining waste for a long time as long as the bio load does not get to high. However, now Im thinking I could put an electrolyzer in there and provide enough oxygen to never need to empty the waste. Of course, if I did that then I could not ever put salt in the system.

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PostPosted: Jan 29th, '09, 03:48 
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BTW, the beads cost $250. The, pipe, uniseals, and drum only cost $43. The deep water air pump cost me $50.

Not bad for being able to feed 1.5 pounds of feed per day!

If you have a source I know you could get a hundred pounds of LDPE beads from an industrial source even cheaper, but I did not have time as winter was setting in fast.

They wanted well over $4,000 for theirs with that capacity.

I may even let this continue to provide 100% of my bio filtration.

Oh! One other thing that would greatly improve waste removal would be to pump out of the drum and let the inlet come directly from the fish tank so that fish poo is no pulverized by the pump.

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PostPosted: Jan 30th, '09, 01:45 
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www.aquaticeco.com sells beads for these filters for around $2 US per pound. Their 55# bag is $100 USD.

The patent talks about the beads getting caught in the air chamber. The concentric siphon is a partial solution and it needs to be adjustable so that the trigger point is within 1/4" of the opening at the bottom of the chamber. You'll get a layer of beads floating inside the chamber, but that will be it. As the chamber empties of water on the air fill cycle, extra beads get pushed out the bottom just before it triggers. Any beads that enter the concentric siphon take a ride up & out when the unit triggers.

I'll be using a bucket with a screw lid I get my chlorine tablets in for my swimming pool.

How does this thing prevent particulates from washing back into the system puring the cleaning cycle? Is it the drop in water level, so the system stops flowing out for a few minutes and the beads get settled again?

What kind of flow rate are you using?


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PostPosted: Jan 30th, '09, 22:20 
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There may be some particles that wash out when it cleans, but with the volume of air I am displacing the current of water is in a downward direction; including the pumped in water. The out going water pretty much stops while the air bubbles in. The idea is to pull the dirty water down below the input screen so that water currents do not carry it back up. Over time the solids settle downward. In my case a lot of water is pulled into a separate container where it has plenty of time to settle out.

Over all, I am quite happy with the setup. It took a lot longer to get the bacteria established than I expected. I had to reduce the cleaning cycles by installing a timer to only run once a day then the bacteria got to work. The water stays clear and clean. A nice earthy smell.

I need to take the time to relocate the location of the pump so that it pulls water out of the barrel so that poo strands are not pulverized by the pump. This is the primary change I think is most important.

I am currently pumping between 700 and 800 gallons per hour through the filter using a 40 watt mag drive pump. The beads do circulate through the air hose and I have to note that my .5 inch hose is really just a little small. Sometimes beads get stuck and I have to tap on the hose while it flushes. .75 inch would have been perfect. Im not concerned about letting the beads out from under the bottom as they did in the patent because the beads flow very well.

I purchased the beads from aquatic eco systems for $89 per 50 pound bag. Its the shipping that gets you. Next time I build one of these I am going to use my rotozip or router to cut up a 50 gallon drum for media, lol. Don't think it would flow through pipes though...

Its a lot of fun to hear when it runs its clean cycle and its automated. All I have to do is turn a valve to dump waste once in a while. Truth is, it would have been just as easy to have used an air compressor to blow bubbles in once a day or once a week through a single drum.

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PostPosted: Feb 1st, '09, 21:38 
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I dunno. I am not a lawyer but there is a third perspective that might complicate things. The user license agreement of youtube. I don't know what it is. But some online companies terms of agreement state that anything you submit to them, they now own. You may be able to write about a patent, and show how to build the gadget, but i am not sure if your allowed to license youtube the rights to the patent by submiting it. Then again, it might be a legal thing that has not yet been tested in court. So who knows. But i do know this is why universities, large companies, etc do not let their intellectual property get placed upon these sites.

Something to consider. If in doubt, show your adaption of designs, but have nothing about the company or their product in the vid.


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PostPosted: Feb 1st, '09, 22:12 
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DanDMan wrote:
There may be some particles that wash out when it cleans, but with the volume of air I am displacing the current of water is in a downward direction; including the pumped in water. The out going water pretty much stops while the air bubbles in. The idea is to pull the dirty water down below the input screen so that water currents do not carry it back up. Over time the solids settle downward. In my case a lot of water is pulled into a separate container where it has plenty of time to settle out.
......
Its a lot of fun to hear when it runs its clean cycle and its automated. All I have to do is turn a valve to dump waste once in a while. Truth is, it would have been just as easy to have used an air compressor to blow bubbles in once a day or once a week through a single drum.


Nice video, interesting idea. I've been thinking about the idea of using compressed air as you mentioned, but eventually realized that it would tend to lift water and dislodged solids above water outlet, while what you mention as a good point is the fact that the water level drops as air escapes from the submerged chamber.

I may have to try one of these as it would provide good conversion and settling while allowing me to transfer water (and heat) less frequently to the growbeds in cold season. Besides, I have all these barrels sitting around.... :geek:

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PostPosted: Feb 4th, '09, 04:37 
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Well, youtube is going to leave it on

So unless the complainer wants to get really nasty I guess its going to be ok.

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PostPosted: Dec 15th, '13, 10:39 
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DanDMan wrote:
Quote:
can i get a simple pic showing how this (flow paths)works using the 2 drums? Did you go with the soda bottle caps?


No bottle caps, I needed a LOT of surface area for bacteria so I purchased the "replacement" media which ended up being nothing more than LDPE beads used for injection equipment.

Its pretty much like the patent, only my air tube is on the outside. A pipe is passed all the way through the drum (uniseals) and I drilled a .25 inch hole every few inches. Watch the whole video. All the parts are noted.

Another improvement I think needs to be done is to use 3 inch pipe for my inlet and outlet screen. This would avoid any back pressure on the system.

I have found that some beads are drawn into the air chamber so it is important to have a large and smooth enough air tube to allow the beads to be drawn through the air tube for return to the filter area. Otherwise, the air chamber gets full of beads. Having a large area for the dirty water to move down will also avoid pulling beads down in a fast moving current. Smaller air volumes will also work. I am currently building a new air tube that fits inside the dirty water down tube.

Quote:
I'm going to give one of these a shot. I think I'll try to use a 5 gallon bucket for a charge chamber and put it in the bottom of a 30 gallon plastic barrel.


That is a very good way to do it. A olive barrel would be perfect. Most barrels are HDPE and most buckets are at least LDPE so you can heat weld them together. My 30 gallon air drum is way to much air! Wish I could get an olive oil drum with a screw on top!

This self cleaning bead filter is keeping 150 tilapia over winter in clear ammonia free water. With a 30 gallon drum I can put off draining waste for a long time as long as the bio load does not get to high. However, now Im thinking I could put an electrolyzer in there and provide enough oxygen to never need to empty the waste. Of course, if I did that then I could not ever put salt in the system.


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