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PostPosted: Jun 10th, '14, 02:12 
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Hey!

So I'm trying a technique to waterproof the wood components of my new system expansion.

1. 100% clear silicone (smells like vinegar)
2. Citrus solvent. From orange peels (I got it from Real Milk Paint company), could also use mineral spirits if you don't mind the risk from the volatiles. They should evaporate out pretty fast IMO and not pose much of threat. I still used citrus solvent because I thought that would be totally safe.
3. Glass bowl to mix them in
4. Detail roller to apply

Put the solvent in the bowl and then a glob of silicone and mix them together for awhile. After about ten minutes of mixing the clumps of silicone will be pretty dissolved. Use the roller to apply onto un-finished wood. The solution soaks into the pores of the wood and repels water. A thin mixture soaks into the wood pores very well.

I have a trough I made with 2x4s and pond liner that has been sitting with water in it since January and the wood still doesn't show any water soaking into it. I initially tried two coats, thinner then thicker but it seems to work fine with just one thin coat. If you've ever tried to scrape silicone off a porous surface you'll know this won't go anywhere for a while.

HTH, have fun if you try it!


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PostPosted: Jun 10th, '14, 06:31 
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Thats awesome DD!

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PostPosted: Jun 10th, '14, 08:02 
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I tried to use regular silicon as a edge sealer on one of my beds. It worked fine for a week, then it took up too much moisture and started leaking like a sieve.

I thought Silicone was alright as long as the area around it had time to dry, if it's constantly emmersed, then it fails.

Or does the thinning process make it last longer? Penetrate the wood better?

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PostPosted: Jun 10th, '14, 09:50 
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Neat idea Dave, hope it works. There's epoxy products like Mirror Coat that they use on bars that might be an alternative to consider if this doesn't work and you need something else.


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PostPosted: Jun 10th, '14, 15:36 
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Interesting idea, I might have to have a play around with it sometime!

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PostPosted: Jun 10th, '14, 20:45 
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Why have i never thought of that! Great idea! :wav:

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PostPosted: Jun 10th, '14, 21:00 
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Awesome thx Dave

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PostPosted: Jun 11th, '14, 01:52 
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I would look at epoxies as a longer term solution.


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PostPosted: Jun 11th, '14, 04:54 
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Of course, but I don't have epoxy money in my budget right now. Who doesn't already have clear silicone in their AP toolkit?

I like being able to use or not use whatever I want rather than figuring out whether to buy a quart or gallon of epoxy that will begin setting as soon as the container is opened.

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PostPosted: Jun 13th, '14, 21:11 
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I put one thin coat on the boards I was working with last weekend and as a test I did the same to a scrap piece and chucked it into the FT for the week. The water had soaked into that block, so I'm going to put a second coat on. The first coat was so thin you had to feel the board to tell which was treated and which was untreated. The treated side feels a little rubbery. I had put two coats on another piece during the Winter and that one is obvious because it is a rubber coating with some thickness to it. I think putting down a thin coat initially would help adhesion.

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PostPosted: Feb 7th, '18, 22:18 
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I know this is an old post but if this finds you Dave, could you tell me how this went?
:dontknow:

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PostPosted: Feb 8th, '18, 06:05 
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Tell me as well please...... I make lots of things out of wood and love tips and tricks like this.

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PostPosted: Feb 8th, '18, 21:00 
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I would suggest one of the DIY kits - Pond Shield Pond Armour.

I built a setup to create a Sieve filter out of wood and sealed it with this. I did away with a baffle and smeared some black silicone on it and had to go back a few times to make sure it was covering.

Had I taken more time to prep, could have made it even and flat but very happy with the overall performance and no leaks/swelling noticed after almost 2 month of use.

Adam


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